The Harwood Arms in Fulham is unique. It is the only pub in London which has earned Michelin star for its food. But what made the Michelin tasters decide this was the venue of, by definition, the best pub grub in London?
Situated in a quiet residential street just a few roads from Fulham Broadway from the outside the Harwood looks like an ordinary local pub, the likes of which you’ll find in every neighbourhood, however upon entering the place becomes less pub and more restaurant.
Although the bar remains, the rest of what was once a pub in the traditional sense of the word is set up like a restaurant. Their website claims that it stills runs as a neighbourhood pub (including quiz nights) but I am not sure how this would work.
But maybe this is what gave the place the Michelin edge.
Anyway, onto the most important part. The food.
I started with the rabbit faggots (stop laughing at the back). My only prior experience with faggots (I said stop laughing) had been the ones produced my Mr Brain as a child and I can say with confidence that these were better than that. Intensely meaty, well seasoned and served on a bed of peas (which I am assured via wikipedia is the traditional accompaniment)
For the main course I went for the special of T-bone of Berkshire fallow deer, served with crispy garlic new potatoes and mushroom ketchup. Given the heritage of the animal that produced it, it is not surprising that the meat was lovely, nice and pink in the middle, but maybe a little too charred on the outside.
After all the rich heavy meat I couldn’t quite face a full dessert, especially given that I had seen them served to other tables and clocked that they look BIG. Instead my wife and I shared the baked stem ginger custard, honeycomb ice cream and custard cream biscuit. I probably should have been able to work it out from the description but the baked custard was essentially a crème brûlée.
All three elements were of an excellent quality, although a criticism could be that it was lacking a hot element to contrast with the cold ice cream, but that would probably over harsh.
Unfortunately the big downside of the trip was not the fault of the Harwood Arms at all. The main reason for our trip to Fulham was to visit the wonderful Union Market food shop situated next to Fulham Broadway station. However, unbeknownst to us the place had gone out of business last month. Sad times.
Scores
Food – 8/10 – Very good quality
Service – 6/10 – Nothing special. A long wait for our starters.
Décor & ambiance – 7/10 – Nice hard wood tables but not really a pub.
Value- 8/10 –£80 for two and a half courses each, two large glasses of house red (you find me another Michelin starred restaurant where you can get 250ml of wine for £5.50), still water and service.
Sauce quantity – 9/10
Change in the number of local independent food shops in London – minus 1
Food, sweat and tears 